Australia - December 29, 2005
Day three summary
Elapsed Time: 11:30:00
Distance: 125.69 miles
Average Speed: 13.6 MPH
Riding Time: 9:12:00
Maximum Speed: 34.6 MPH
Odometer: 81,236.01
Traveled from Moruya to Bombala
NW/NNW/NNE/NE winds 0-15 MPH
55F-83F according to wunderground.com although certain areas sure felt more like 100F
Today was an interesting day to say the least. The day started out okay. The miles were going by rather quickly. I also actually found a bicycle shop. I believe this was in the town of Narooma. I bought four spare tubes here. It was a HUGE relief to have some spares at this point. I hit the town of Candelo after putting on about 90 miles or so. I turned left up a paved road and kept going. Eventually down the road a ways I saw this ominous yellow sign which read, "Gravel Road". This indeed made me nervous. This was no ordinary gravel road either. This road was very rutty and in poor condition. I was almost certain I would end up getting a flat tire by riding on roads in such condition. At this point, I really started experiencing the joys of Australian flies. It felt like it was 100 degrees out there and tons of these flies started to cling to my head. These were the most persistent flies I have ever seen. A simple breezy generated by my hands waving did not do the trick to rid my face of these flies. I really had to shake my head to get them off, only to have them come back again right away. Just when I thought things could not get worse I see a small ragged wooden sign stating two words, "Mount Tantawangalo". This was not a nice surprise. Shortly after this point, the road inclined to an extreme degree. The gravel was so loose in some areas that if I stood up to get better leverage, my back tire would just spin out. It was miserable to say the least. Speeds were getting down to 4 MPH at points and then I would spin out due to the horrible conditions of the gravel. Shortly after this insane stretch started, a motor biker stopped to talk to me. He asked me, "Do you know what you're getting yourself into?" He went on to tell me that the route continued just like this for 22 kilometers. This continued to be some of the most miserable riding I've ever done. There was one point where I felt like I was spinning and dizzy. I didn't have too much water left either at this point. Even though the weather history for Bombala stated a high of 83, it sure felt like 100 were I was at. I was sweating like crazy. I was getting goosebumps at this point as well. Nevertheless I pressed on. Even after the 22 kilometers were completed a couple hours later, the gravel was still in tough condition but was at least flat. Finally the road became paved a little before Cathcart. This was a very welcome sign. I stopped at a small convenience store and bought an ice cream treat and something to drink. It was like heaven at that point. I continued on a few more miles and made it to Bombala. I stayed at a small hotel for only $25 Australian dollars ($18.75 US). There was no TV in my room and no bathroom. You had to go down the hall for the bathroom and go to a lounge for the TV. I could care less though. My room was small but very comfortable and I did not have to deal with any partiers tonight. The owner (I think) of the place was impressed with my trip. He was very friendly and made me feel right at home. I always feel a little weird walking into these places being all sweaty. I went to a small cafe downtown and got dinner for "take away". I had a T-bone steak. It was very good. It was interesting to find out that Bombala is the sister city to Sturgis, SD.






Below is an article dealing with my route from
http://www.sapphirecoast.com.au/drives/printdrive10.htm
Tourist Drive 10
“To travel this diverse hinterland is to understand the courage and tenacity of
our pioneer families.”
Tour the rolling hills of Candelo where dairy herds have grazed since white man
first came to the area. Explore the steep mountain roads and tall forests of
Tantawangalo, where the tumbling waters of Six Mile Creek begin their journey to
the ocean, through the hidden valley of Towamba, beneath the spectacular rock
face of Mount Jingera.
Distance: 143km
Road: 90km is unsealed (gravel).
Some steep and windy sections. Easily accessible by the average family car.

1. Kameruka estate
Sadly this famous historic estate is no longer open to the public.
Originally part of the Imlay Brothers lease (1834), the property was eventually
bought by the Tooth family of Kent, England, famous for Tooth’s KB (Kents Best)
Beer, and flourished under the management of Sir Robert Lucas Tooth who
inherited the property in 1864. The Jersey stud was established in 1888, and the
manufacture of cheese on the property was the foundation of the cheese industry
in the Bega Valley. The estate was developed along English lines, with homes for
tenant farmers, a landscaped village, meeting halls, cricket ground, and the
planting of many English trees. The First World War put an end to further plans
when Sir Robert’s three sons were killed in action. Much of the original estate
has been sold in recent years. The famous Kameruka Cheese is now made by the
Bega Cheese Co-operative using the original Kameruka recipe.
Over undulating hills this gently winding road follows the course of the Candelo
River for 17kms to the township of Candelo.
2. Candelo golf course
Worth noting for future reference. The sign on the right at the bottom of
the hill as you continue on past Kameruka gateway indicates the old Candelo Golf
Course, where the old fashioned sand greens prove an interesting challenge to
most golfers.
3. Candelo
The 100 year old shady trees beside the river and the quaint historic
buildings of this sleepy town are reminders of Candelo’s past importance as a
major wagon stop. Bullock drays bringing produce and supplies to and from the
Monaro high country to the coastal shipping ports rested here overnight, and
made necessary repairs to their wagons and harnesses at the local saddler or
blacksmith. The everchanging river crossing was checked, for the sandy river
bottom held patches of quicksand and the changing water levels could also prove
disastrous for a heavily laden wagon.
A fascinating brochure on the history of the town is available from the local
shops. Candelo really comes back to life on the first Sunday of each month when
the Candelo Markets are held in the park beside the river.
4. Watch for tourist drive sign
Cross the bridge and turn left. Watch for the Tourist Drive sign indicating
a right turn onto a gravel road. The road is windy and increasingly hilly as you
head inland, with the rolling green hills of the valley giving way to tall
eucalypt forests.
5. Tantawangalo Trail rides
Ride the bush trails on a 1,000 acre cattle property and experience this
rugged bushland as the pioneers did. Trail rides are escorted and horses are
available to suit all grades of rider. Phone 6493 2350 to book.
6. Tantawangalo
No sign of the original town remains. Today the name Tantawangalo refers to
this vast locality and more specifically to the Tantawangalo National Park.
Tantawangalo was originally a horse station of 6,500 acres, established by the
Imlay Brothers in the 1830’s. When the township developed in the late 1800’s,
horses were still of major importance. Town race meetings were held beside the
river, the impressive course having a grandstand, saddling paddock, loose boxes
and first-class publicans booth. Although the course was up and down hill and
sometimes out of sight of spectators (allowing for ‘unproven interference’) it
attracted big crowds and bookmakers travelled from Sydney and Melbourne to
attend. Races often fielded as many as 13 horses per race, although one meeting
attracted no horses at all. It is reported that there was a good crowd, plus
seven out of town bookmakers, all of whom thoroughly enjoyed the day and
publicans booth... no-one missed the horses!
7. Six mile creek
In the shadow of Tantawangalo Mountain amidst the hushed quiet of majestic
old trees, you will discover Six Mile Creek Picnic Area. Picnic tables, BBQ and
toilets make this the perfect place to linger a while. Read the signage in the
picnic area and wonder at the courage of our pioneers. Walk the trails along the
rocky creek bank and discover the beauty of the tiny native flowers and ferns.
Venture across the road for a short walk to the viewing platform, where the
water rushes over the rocky riverbed, forming small rock pools which nestle
under ferny overhangs, tumbling waterfalls and bubbling cascades.
8. The shire boundary
The change in vegetation from tall old forests to stunted sub-alpine
woodlands appears to coincide with the Shire boundary. You will travel through
this high country vegetation for the next 15kms, eventually turning back
eastwards and, when you re-enter the Bega Valley Shire and head down Mount
Darragh, amazingly the vegetation reverts to tall eucalypts almost as if the
Shire boundaries had some botanical significance.
http://www.thetravelforum.com/showpost.php?p=1512355&postcount=7 Hi Jason Snowy Mountains down to Sorrento? That's a jump - which way? via Cann River, Bonang or Omeo? Did you get to the Gippsland coast, via Port Albert, Wonthaggi, Wilson's Prom? I did a little of that last Christmas. On the way south, after Canberra we went via Naas and Tharwa to Adaminaby, Kiandra, Mt Selwyn-Tumbarumba-Holbrook. There was a fair bit of gravel road on that last leg, lost a hub-cap somewhere there:-) I don't have a 4wd, just a Magna Wagon. Returning north, we wandered through Gippsalnd then Cann River-Bombala-Cathcart-Candelo (the direct gravel road - rough as guts but some wonderful deserted rough country) then Bega and up the Princes and Pacific (with a detour to Mangrove Mountain) to home. I like wandering around on the back roads if I have time. I get totally bored on freeways. Cheers, Alan, Australia